View Full Version : Need a Paint job on my new Hotbodies

06-15-2007, 06:43 PM
Anyone know a painter willing to shoot my new Hotbodies?

Brad Richards

06-15-2007, 09:10 PM
Russ at Custom Classics will do it for about $400 or so, one color.

Anyone ever use Maco? They do whole cars for $99, why can't they do some small fairing for that?

06-15-2007, 11:26 PM
Exactly what I was thinking. Macco or Earl Scheib etc... As long as you bring it to them prepped all they have to do is shoot it.

06-16-2007, 06:39 AM
Maaco quoted me $350 for one solid color, including an hour of bodywork. I think that the hour of bodywork is required so that they can make sure that their paint will stick. If you can find a bike painter that will paint it for $400, I would go that route, just because that usually includes number plates front and rear.

06-16-2007, 01:01 PM
just paint it yourself. Its not hard to do

06-16-2007, 01:38 PM
just paint it yourself. Its not hard to do

Can you suggest the proper steps, tools, paint type etc?

06-16-2007, 03:23 PM
I have not a clue, but I am sure 10 minutes with Google and you will find out.

I think it all depends on how you want it to look. One of the fellow novice racers painted his bodywork in his garage with rattle cans and it looks pretty good. Then again I have seen a few other not look so good.

06-16-2007, 06:08 PM
2 cans of Krylon spray paint. Trust me on this. Make it through novice, then go for a nice paint job.

06-16-2007, 06:16 PM
He might be a little far from you in Lacey, but these guys did a great job for me... contact Jim at http://www.driven2performance.com/

These plastics were pretty shaggy when I handed them over, they look great now!

Thanks to B Bones for the pic :D

06-16-2007, 09:31 PM
I tried the Krylon route with my pit bike and there is a catch: It does not seem to be fuel resistant. I got a couple of drips of gas on the tank when I was removing the filler tube after filling it up and it left two splotches a couple of inches across on the tank that never went away even after scrubbing.

So I just said screw it and re-shot it with automotive paint. Like someone said, it's not hard at all, gets you a way better job, and isn't as expensive as you would think, especially if you can borrow the equipment.

I found a paint supplier that was surprisingly cheap and the paint kicks ass IMO. Check them out here (http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx). Any color on that page can be had in either gloss or flat. The flat looks very "prototype" and is what I use. I'm extremely happy with it. Oh yeah, the best part is it's $35 for enough to paint your bike twice and doesn't require a clearcoat. Hell, a couple of rattle cans is $10, so the extra $25 will have been well worth it!

Then all you need is your equipment. This can usually be borrowed if you know the right people, rented if you just have to, or really isn't all THAT expensive to buy. You'll need an HVLP spray gun and inline regulator. Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HVLP-Air-Spray-Car-Paint-Gun-w-Guage-Kit-Auto-Tool_W0QQitemZ140128121232QQihZ004QQcategoryZ79702 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)'s both for $40 on eBay, and there are plenty more where that came from.
Compressors are a bit more expensive, so definitely handy to know someone with one to borrow (hell, I'd loan you mine if you're willing to come to Bellingham and pick it up).

Next thing you need is a place to paint. Most people already have this whether they know it or not. If you have a trailer or van to hual your bike to the track, you've got a place to paint! Just buy polyethylene painter's dropcloth sheets at the hardware store and staple/tack/tie it to the inside of your trailer (I mummified the inside of my van's box in plastic for a whopping $3.98).

From there, it's just a matter of following the instructions. The paint will come with instructions and the equipment will come with instructions, so you're good to go. Hell, if you can make a rattle can job look good, you'll be GOLD with a real sprayer. Just make sure to follow rule number one: Paint a relatively large piece of something that's not your bodywork BEFORE just marching right in, getting your pressure or mixture wrong, and making a mess out of your race plastics.

As for primer, it's all well and good, but I'm of the assumption that with how often race bodywork needs repaired, I'm not too worried about the longevity of the job and don't see the need to spend the extra money on it. The crappy primer coat that comes on the bodywork is fine and if it's been painted before, you don't want to prime anyway. Save your money and just spray an extra coat of paint on there.

Oh yeah, as for protecting yourself, the rules for shooting are the same for rattle cans: You'll want an organic vapor cartridge respirator if you can get your hands on one. Or at the very least a dust mask. Keep the trailer door open while you're in there painting so you don't kill yourself with fumes. I usually open the door, climb in and paint, get out, throw a space heater in there turned up to keep the temps right, and close the door behind me so no dust gets in. Then about 15 minutes later I open the door back up, pull out the space heater, and recoat. Repeat until finished.

Here's twilight black metallic flat with rattle can number plates done by a COMPLETE painting n00b:

06-16-2007, 09:40 PM
Oh yeah, if you didn't mind making the treck up north, I'd have no problem letting you use my van/paint booth and equipment. Just buy the paint and some plastic sheets and bring it all up with your plastics. I've got a couple of respirators and Tyvek suits at home and could "borrow" some more OV cartriges for the respirators, too, so you wouldn't have to worry so much about getting covered in paint. Or dying...

Mr Sunshine
06-16-2007, 10:46 PM
Geddyt just one fyi....the fumes in the paint will absorb into your body through your eyes. So make sure you have good ventilation along with the proper respriator.

06-16-2007, 10:57 PM
Yeah, that's why I said to leave the door open when you paint. I also use goggles.

06-17-2007, 07:51 AM
Nice work 904!!! :)